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The weakest link


A woman cleans the table in a restaurant in Acapulco.Nayeli Cruz / Nayeli Cruz

Restaurants are among the most visible victims of covid-19, although it is not the same for everyone. Nobody shows the disaster of humble dining rooms, the well in which so many family businesses are plunged or the devaluation of the average kitchens to try to survive. We celebrate the reopening of a large, while silencing the supreme exercise of survival that means the return to life of the neighborhood bar, the corner cafe. The place where they serve the coffee every morning matters less than the myth is …


elpais.com