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There’s still hope

I have just arrived in Lima and just got off the plane I receive a list of restaurants that have closed. It has flaws, but it is long and there are absences that hurt, such as that of Bisetti, the cafeteria that followed in the wake of Arabica, where the movement of revaluation of Peruvian coffee began, and later it became a mother house in which a few were formed protagonists of the coffee awakening of the city. It maintains the space dedicated to roasting, which ensures the continuity of its coffees, but gives up the part of the premises that used to be a cafeteria to a different proposal. The list contains about forty well-known names, some of them subsidiaries of brands that the pandemic hooked in full growth to the Peruvian: first multiply and then think if you had an audience and a kitchen to justify it. Everyone wanted to be Gastón Acurio, skipping fifteen years working eighteen hours a day, learning, commitments and the essential structure to settle in and then grow. A good part of those that close are investors from outside the sector who decided to bet against a mirage.

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elpais.com